Piazza San Carlo, Turin
The Twin Churches, the equestrian statue of Emanuele Filiberto, porticoes that never seem to end: an independent guide to Turin's baroque drawing room, with the practical information that actually matters.
The Twin Churches
Santa Cristina and San Carlo Borromeo face each other in perfect symmetry at the entrance to the square — a scenic effect, unique in Italy, designed for anyone arriving from Via Roma. Free entry to both.
Statue of Emanuele Filiberto
At the centre of the square, the Savoy duke sheathes his sword after the victory at San Quentin. It's Turin's classic meeting point: "see you under the bronze horse," as locals say in dialect.
The Porticoes
The square is entirely enclosed by 18th-century porticoes, part of the nearly 18 km of porticoes covering central Turin — you can walk from here to Piazza Vittorio almost without ever stepping into the open, rain or snow.
The Historic Cafés
Caffè San Carlo and Caffè Torino have faced the square since the 19th century. The modern aperitivo was effectively born here, and the real bicerin — chocolate, coffee and cream — is still served today.
Turin is best explored under the porticoes, rain or shine
Turin has over 18 km of continuous porticoes in its historic centre — one of the most extensive portico systems in Europe. From Piazza San Carlo you can reach Piazza Castello, Via Po and almost the whole centre while staying under cover the entire way. Useful to know in winter (fog and rain are common) but also in summer, when the porticoes offer cool shade away from direct sun.
Turin doesn't have the queues of Rome or Florence, but some experiences — the Egyptian Museum above all — are worth booking ahead, especially on weekends.
Turin Film Festival and Salone del Libro
In November, the Turin Film Festival brings the city's historic cinemas to life; in May, the International Book Fair draws publishers and authors from around the world.
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In March, the city's streets fill with artisan chocolate stalls: Turin is the home of the gianduiotto, and this festival celebrates it with tastings and workshops.
Discover the eventTurin-style aperitivo and the Quadrilatero Romano
Turin invented the modern aperitivo: a stroll through the bars of the Quadrilatero Romano, with vermouth, free bar snacks and medieval architecture, is an experience in itself.
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Historic cafés, restaurants, tour operators, chocolate shops: if you'd like to be featured in this section or in "What to See", get in touch.
The elegant centre around Via Roma offers convenience and porticoes just steps away. The Quadrilatero Romano is livelier and younger, perfect for those looking for nightlife and trendy venues.
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From Turin Caselle, the Sadem shuttle reaches Porta Nuova in about 45 minutes; a fixed-fare taxi takes similar time. From Porta Nuova, the square is a 10-minute walk under the porticoes.
Full transfer guideCar rental
The centre has a restricted traffic zone active on weekdays: pointless for getting around Turin itself. It only makes sense for reaching the Langhe, the Sacra di San Michele or the Olympic valleys independently.
When it's worth rentingSpace reserved for local operators.
Your first stop in Turin: the city's baroque drawing room
The Twin Churches, the equestrian statue and the porticoes can be visited as a single block. A bicerin at Caffè Torino is the best way to close the visit.
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